For centuries, Odisha has been a hub of rich handloom heritage — an art form woven with devotion, tradition, and unmatched craftsmanship. From the rhythmic sound of looms in remote villages to the graceful drape of a Sambalpuri saree, the handloom sector in Odisha is not just a cottage industry; it is a living legacy. It speaks volumes about the state’s culture, creativity, and identity.
A Glimpse into History
The roots of handloom weaving in Odisha date back to 600 BC, and its story is deeply intertwined with the rituals of Lord Jagannath of Puri. According to legend, Jayadev, the 12th-century poet, offered his celebrated Gita Govinda to the Lord — not on paper, but as verses woven into fabric. This sacred tradition continues, with special handwoven textiles still used in the daily rituals of the temple.
Odisha’s handloom textiles are not only art pieces but also expressions of mythology, nature, and spirituality — seen in the motifs of conch shells, peacocks, elephants, lotus flowers, and temples.
On August 7, 2025, during the observance of the 11th National Handloom Day, Odisha Chief Minister Mohan Charan Majhi announced the appointment of Madhuri Dixit as the official Brand Ambassador of Odisha Handlooms. The announcement was made at the inauguration of the state’s ambitious ‘EKTA’ programme — an initiative designed to showcase the elegance, heritage, and potential of Odisha’s handwoven textiles.
Weaving Tradition with Star Power
Known for her timeless grace and cultural appeal, Madhuri Dixit Nene’s association with Odisha’s handloom sector aims to create waves — not just across India, but globally. Over the next one year, she will champion the handlooms of Odisha, particularly weaves like Sambalpuri, Bomkai, Ikat, and Habaspuri, giving a voice and platform to the 1.3 lakh weavers who carry this heritage forward.
“We hope that Odisha’s handlooms and textiles will find a well-defined space in the Indian fashion sector through Dixit ji’s involvement,” said CM Mohan Majhi at the event.
Her involvement isn’t just symbolic — it’s part of a broader movement to position Odisha’s weaves as a lifestyle statement, rather than just a cultural artifact.
The EKTA Programme: More Than Just a Showcase
Launched alongside the announcement, EKTA (Exhibition cum Knowledge-sharing for Textile Advantage) is a multi-pronged initiative. It includes:
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Handloom exhibitions showcasing Odisha’s finest creations
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Workshops on natural dyeing, ikat techniques, and textile innovation
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Collaborations between artisans and designers
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Buyer-seller meets to help weavers tap into new markets
The programme reflects a shift from viewing handloom as just tradition — instead, it’s being reimagined as a dynamic and sustainable fashion industry with global relevance.
Why Sambalpur is Called the ‘Handloom City’
The city of Sambalpur in western Odisha is known as the ‘Handloom City’ — home to the world-famous Sambalpuri Bandha Sarees. The intricate tie-and-dye technique, locally known as Bandha or Ikat, gives the fabric its vibrant identity. Sambalpuri weaves are not printed — they are dyed into the yarn itself, making each piece a masterpiece.
Sambalpuri sarees, bed sheets, dupattas, and wall hangings often depict traditional symbols like fish, flowers, wheels, and religious emblems. The double ikat method, where both warp and weft threads are dyed before weaving, makes these creations visually stunning on both sides of the fabric.
Iconic Handlooms of Odisha
1. Kotpad Handloom (Koraput District)
Specialty: First GI-tagged product from Odisha (2005)
Made by: The Mirgan tribal community
Features: Organic, vegetable-dyed cotton and tussar fabrics using dyes from the Aul tree
Usage: Sarees, dupattas, scarves, dress materials
Notable Work: The documentary “Kotpad Weaving: The Story of a Race Against Time” highlights the challenges and artistry of this tribal craft.
2. Orissa Ikat
Technique: Tie-and-dye method applied to warp, weft, or both (single & double ikat)
Designs: Curvilinear patterns like Lahari, Lata, Ghagra, and Deuli
Usage: Sarees, dress materials, dupattas, furnishings (bedsheets, curtains, cushion covers)
Weavers: Bhulia Meher, Kustha, Devanga, Salvi communities
3. Gopalpur Tussar (Jajpur District)
Known For: Odisha’s largest Tussar production center
Products: Tussar sarees, stoles, dupattas, bedsheets, wall hangings
Legacy: A 400-year-old weaving tradition inspired by Shri Chaitanya
4. Dhalapathar Parda
Location: Dhalapathar village
Specialty: Handwoven door curtains, sarees, wall hangings using thick cotton threads and wooden tools
Designs: Cultural and geometric motifs with rich textures
5. Bomkai Sarees
Technique: Extra weft weaving using Jalla technique
Designs: Depictions of tribal life — tortoise, fish, dolls, chariots, trees
Region: Woven in Ganjam and Subarnapur
6. Habaspuri Sarees
Origin: Kalahandi district
Features: Tribal motifs in natural dyes (flowers, fish, tortoise)
Fabric: Cotton and silk
Products: Sarees and stoles with broad borders and decorated pallus
7. Khandua Sarees (Nuapatna and Tigiria)
Cultural Link: Sacred fabric of Lord Jagannath
Designs: Gitagovinda verses, peacocks, conches, lotus, deer
Technique: Weaving using fly shuttle looms and dobby attachments
Fabric: Mercerised cotton and silk
The Process: A Labor of Love
The making of a handloom product — especially a Sambalpuri saree — involves several meticulous steps:
- Yarn Preparation: Cotton or silk threads are evenly distributed to avoid inconsistencies.
- Tying & Dyeing: Threads are tied in specific patterns and dyed using natural or synthetic colors.
- Dye Fixing & Washing: Yarns are boiled, washed, and dried multiple times for rich color.
- Weaving: Skilled weavers take over — creating the final fabric on handlooms with precision and care.
Time Taken: A single ikat saree can take 6–8 days, while a double ikat saree can take several weeks.
Sustainability and Global Recognition
Odisha’s handloom sector stands as a beacon of sustainable fashion. Many weavers still use natural dyes, hand-spun yarns, and traditional tools — reducing carbon footprints and promoting slow fashion.
The handloom products from Odisha — especially Sambalpuri, Kotpad, and Bomkai — have found global appreciation for their eco-friendly production, intricate artistry, and cultural narratives.
Preserving a Heritage
Despite its artistic richness, Odisha’s handloom industry faces challenges — including low wages, competition from machine-made products, and declining interest among youth.
However, with initiatives from the government, fashion designers, NGOs, and filmmakers, there’s renewed interest and hope for revival. Recognition through Geographical Indication (GI) tags, national awards, and global fashion events is helping these weaves gain their rightful spotlight.
Conclusion
The handlooms of Odisha are not just threads woven into fabric — they are stories of devotion, identity, resilience, and timeless artistry. Whether it’s the earthy tones of a Kotpad saree or the vibrant motifs of a Sambalpuri dupatta, every piece carries the soul of the weaver.
In a world of fast fashion, Odisha’s handloom reminds us to pause, appreciate craftsmanship, and wear something that tells a story.